Ever wonder about hair extensions?

I get questions every week from people about hair extensions. Some are just curious ("how to they work, exactly?") and some want to know if they would provide a solution for a specific problem they are having. There are a lot of answers to every question, of course, and there's not enough room on this page to get into all the complexities of every method or system, but I'll do my best to give an overview and basic information on some of the most common products available.

"Hair Extensions" is a phrase that covers a lot of ground. The most important distinction is that, unlike wigs, falls and hair pieces, extensions are usually attached (more or less permanently) to your own hair. Depending on the type, they can last anywhere from a few weeks to three or four months or longer, with regular maintenance visits.

Hair extensions offer a practical solution for a great many hair problems:

• Extra length. If you've cut your hair short and are regretting it, or your hair just isn't growing fast enough, this is a great solution.
• Volume. Some girls just have those awesome, thick, rippling waves cascading down their back. You know who I mean- you hate them as much as I do. She pulls it back in ponytail as thick as your arm, and sighs about how hard it is to have So Much Hair. Boo hoo. So ok, if you're not her (and most of us are not) then you might be surprised to learn what hair extensions can do for you. It's not always about adding length. You can have the thick hair you've always wanted.

Before & After- Awesome Length and Volume!

•  Adding highlights or fashion color. Adding color is easy with extensions. Especially on dark, color treated hair; lightening enough to get a bright, fashion or jewel color (like pink or purple) can be difficult. And once you have that bright color, it's tough to get them to last and they tend to fade too quickly. Hair extensions come in all kinds of fun colors, so adding a bright accent is easy, and can be changed quickly with no damage to your own hair.

Blue accent extensions brighten a sassy cut

Cost: There are many kinds of hair extensions, and costs can vary with factors like hair quality, length, texture, origin, brand name, and installation method. Having extensions done in a salon can be pricey, but again, can vary quite a bit regionally so it pays to shop around. Costs generally come from two factors: the actual hair to be added to yours, and the "installation," the process of adding the extensions to your hair. Installing hair extensions can be very time consuming, sometimes 5-8 hours or more. During that time, the stylist can only work on one client, which means a big chunk of her day is consumed with providing that one service. As a result, installation prices usually represent a significant portion of the overall price. Most salons also add a mark-up to the cost of the hair (this can also vary quite a bit). Sometimes a salon will permit a client to bring in hair they have purchased elsewhere, though most won't because there's no way for them to verify quality or fiber content. The salon's reputation is at stake and many are not willing to take the risk.

Typically, your journey to great new hair will begin with a consultation appointment, where your natural hair's color, texture and length is evaluated, and your specific needs, concerns and budget are discussed. If you decide to move forward with the process, you will usually be asked for a deposit (usually at least 1/2 the total cost of the service.) Most salons will custom order your hair for you, and can't return it if you change your mind. Your deposit usually covers the cost of the hair; expect this to be non-refundable.

Some salons offer a package price that includes the cost of the hair and installation (usually this does not include services you'll need for your own hair, like cut and color.) Others itemize costs, and show separate charges for hair purchased and installation. Still others will offer a maintenance package, usually including hair, installation, and upkeep appointments for a period of time.

Types of extensions: There are many types and methods of hair extensions, and this list is not, by any means, complete. But here are a few pros and cons of some of the most common types. 

Clip-ins: A "do-it-yourself" option, available in a huge variety of lengths and materials. Many are synthetic hair, which keeps the cost low but means limited styling options. You can't use heat on most synthetic hair, though there are a few that are heat-resistant. (They will say so on the package, and are usually a little more expensive.) Human hair clip-ins are available, and although the price might be higher, this is a good choice if you want more styling options, and plan to wear them for a long time.

Pros:

• Can be put in and taken out by you (no stylist needed) 
• Relatively inexpensive (prices range from $50-300)
• Last a long time if cared for properly

Cons:

• Usually synthetic hair (no heat)
• Synthetic hair clip-ins cannot be dyed, so if you change your color, you can't change your extensions
• Can tangle easily and become unusable
• Clips can become uncomfortable and can damage hair if not used properly

Tape-in: "Wefts" (a flat piece of hair, usually 1"-3" wide) are attached with a special, double-sided tape, similar to the tape used for toupees. One weft goes on top of your hair, the other attaches on the underside, forming a bond.

Pros:

• Looks very natural (for a while)
• Great for super fine or fragile hair. Less stress on small strands
• Can be re-used;  hair is removed, shampooed, re-taped and reapplied. Lengthy, time consuming process, but can be done.
• Quick, easy application can mean less cost. 

Cons:

• Tape-ins grow out quickly and become visible; the tape tends to curl as the natural hair gets longer
• Removal can be difficult; tape is very sticky and can be difficult to get out of the hair
• Re-taping/reapplication is time consuming and messy. 

Micro-link: Slender strands of hair are attached to small strands of the natural hair, using small metal beads which are crimped with pliers.

Pros:

• Very cost-effective; hair can easily be re-used several times. (maintenance appointments at the salon keep them looking fresh) 
• No heat or glue
• Very natural looking results
• Hair can be colored or highlighted without removing the extensions
• Hair products or heat tools pose no problem

Cons:

• Can cause stress and breakage on fragile hair . (silicone lined beads are gentler.)
• Upkeep/maintenance appointments can mean extra cost. (offset by not having to repurchase hair every 3 months)
• Sometimes doesn't hold well on certain types of hair; strands can just slide out of the hair.
• bead color, if not exactly the same as hair color, can sometimes show through hair

Fusion: Individual strands are attached to strands of the natural hair. The strands are tipped with a hard substance, usually a keratin/glue mixture, which is melted using a special tool, and then bonded to the natural hair by rolling the softened substance around the natural hair until it cools back into a solid.

Pros:

• Very natural-looking  results
• When done correctly, minimal stress or damage to natural hair
• Lasts 3-4 months
• Hair can be colored (but not over the bonds) while wearing

Cons:

• Installation and removal can be time consuming (and costly)
• Bonds melt at a fairly low heat; using flat irons or curling irons can melt the bonds. Care must be taken to avoid heat near the bonds
• Alcohols and oils can weaken the bonds and cause them to fall out. Hair products must be kept away from the bonds
• Hair cannot be re-used. When extensions are removed, new hair is purchased and applied.

Care of extensions
Getting hair extensions can be a big investment; it makes sense to protect that investment by using quality care products. The extensions can't absorb natural oils and nutrients from your skin like your own hair can, so it's important to take good care of it to keep it supple, healthy and shiny. Some hair extension companies offer their own care lines, and your stylist can suggest the best care products for you. Some tips to keep your extensions looking good:

• Braid your hair loosely before bed, or tie in a scrunchie. This minimizes tangling while you sleep.
• Shampoo gently and use a conditioner. Comb the conditioner through from the ends toward your scalp (avoiding the bonds) while you're still in the shower. Leave the conditioner in as long as you can to maximize the benefits. 
• Gently towel blot, don't scrub with the towel
• Use a detangler, and comb out tangles carefully from the bottom up
• Invest in a "Loop Brush" (available from your salon), specially made for hair extensions. This will avoid pulling and stressing the extensions and your natural hair.
• Use hair products if needed, but avoid bonds. Concentrate on the ends and mid-length for volume and control.
• Be careful with heat tools (blow driers, flat and curling irons.) They can easily melt bonds. 
• Follow all care instructions given by your salon, and schedule (and keep!) maintenance appointments.

One final word: Craigslist is full of folks offering hair extension services, but please be careful. In most states, a person doing hair extensions for money is required to be licensed by the state board of cosmetology, and someone offering to do hair extensions in your (or their) kitchen may not be licensed, or even properly trained to do them. I've seen ads on Craigslist that actually state "I don't have a license but I know how to do extensions." Having someone without proper training apply extensions can result in things far worse than just cheap synthetic hair and extensions that shed or fall out. Poor sanitation practices can expose you to serious health risks, and poor application can cause hair loss, scarring and irreparable damage to your hair. One client had entire chunks of hair missing after having extensions done in someone's kitchen, leaving little round bald spots all through the top of her head. Plus the "stylist" couldn't get the client's hair to the correct color, so she applied bleach and sent her home with it, instructing her to come back the next morning. Not only was the color hideous, but this caused serious damage that we are still trying to repair. If you're looking for someone to do extensions for you, always ask to see photos of their work or referrals from other clients, and always check to make sure they're licensed in your state.