Red Velvet!

This cut and color was so much fun to do! Unfortunately, in my eagerness to get started I completely forgot to snap a "before" picture. When the lovely Julie (name changed!) came in, her curly hair fell halfway down her back in long waves. There wasn't much layering; it was nearly one length. Her natural medium, ashy brown had been colored at home to a golden, copper red that had faded a bit and had lost its vibrancy.

The first step was creating a new cut; a fun, 2012 version Shag
that released her bouncy curls, leaving soft tendrils framing her face.  

Julie's fantastic Red Velvet hair!

 
  Then... her color was completely re-created using one of Keune's fantastic red shades, with some blue-black panels woven in for dimension and extra spice. Her color looked exactly the shade of a yummy piece of Red Velvet cake! Stunning!

Another view of her sassy new cut

My interpretation of a Pinterest look

I love hair color. I especially love when someone walks in and wants to do something "different." Jessica knew exactly what she wanted when she came in; she had seen this picture, which I also have pinned on one of my Pinterest boards. She didn't want the exact same cut, and a little different color, but that was the idea we started with. And this is how she looked when she came in:

Her dark brown hair was a little longer than shoulder length, cut in a cute inverted bob. (Shorter in the back, longer in front.) She had some previous color, and a little bit of grey that she wanted to not see any more.

To start the transformation, a small, triangle section over the part was sectioned off, and a lightener with a very low developer was applied from her ends to the mid-strand. The key to success with bright reds over dark hair is not over-lightening. While that processed, Keune Tinta color in a level 3 natural brown was applied to the new growth, and then later pulled through to the ends to create rich, even color. When the triangle section got to a red stage, the lightener was applied to the remainder of the section. When the whole strand was lifted to orange, the lightener was removed. After the base (dark brown) processed and rinsed, an intense red Keune color went over the lightened section. Her hair was shaped into a cut similar to what she already had. And here is the gorgeous end result!

Did I mention how much I love hair color? :-)

These cute little "what I do" posters are appearing all over facebook (and everywhere), with funny pictures of "what my mom thinks I do" and "what the public thinks I do" for various vocations and hobbies. I haven't seen one for hairstylists, so I made my own:

Cheers!

Ever wonder about hair extensions?

I get questions every week from people about hair extensions. Some are just curious ("how to they work, exactly?") and some want to know if they would provide a solution for a specific problem they are having. There are a lot of answers to every question, of course, and there's not enough room on this page to get into all the complexities of every method or system, but I'll do my best to give an overview and basic information on some of the most common products available.

"Hair Extensions" is a phrase that covers a lot of ground. The most important distinction is that, unlike wigs, falls and hair pieces, extensions are usually attached (more or less permanently) to your own hair. Depending on the type, they can last anywhere from a few weeks to three or four months or longer, with regular maintenance visits.

Hair extensions offer a practical solution for a great many hair problems:

• Extra length. If you've cut your hair short and are regretting it, or your hair just isn't growing fast enough, this is a great solution.
• Volume. Some girls just have those awesome, thick, rippling waves cascading down their back. You know who I mean- you hate them as much as I do. She pulls it back in ponytail as thick as your arm, and sighs about how hard it is to have So Much Hair. Boo hoo. So ok, if you're not her (and most of us are not) then you might be surprised to learn what hair extensions can do for you. It's not always about adding length. You can have the thick hair you've always wanted.

Before & After- Awesome Length and Volume!

•  Adding highlights or fashion color. Adding color is easy with extensions. Especially on dark, color treated hair; lightening enough to get a bright, fashion or jewel color (like pink or purple) can be difficult. And once you have that bright color, it's tough to get them to last and they tend to fade too quickly. Hair extensions come in all kinds of fun colors, so adding a bright accent is easy, and can be changed quickly with no damage to your own hair.

Blue accent extensions brighten a sassy cut

Cost: There are many kinds of hair extensions, and costs can vary with factors like hair quality, length, texture, origin, brand name, and installation method. Having extensions done in a salon can be pricey, but again, can vary quite a bit regionally so it pays to shop around. Costs generally come from two factors: the actual hair to be added to yours, and the "installation," the process of adding the extensions to your hair. Installing hair extensions can be very time consuming, sometimes 5-8 hours or more. During that time, the stylist can only work on one client, which means a big chunk of her day is consumed with providing that one service. As a result, installation prices usually represent a significant portion of the overall price. Most salons also add a mark-up to the cost of the hair (this can also vary quite a bit). Sometimes a salon will permit a client to bring in hair they have purchased elsewhere, though most won't because there's no way for them to verify quality or fiber content. The salon's reputation is at stake and many are not willing to take the risk.

Typically, your journey to great new hair will begin with a consultation appointment, where your natural hair's color, texture and length is evaluated, and your specific needs, concerns and budget are discussed. If you decide to move forward with the process, you will usually be asked for a deposit (usually at least 1/2 the total cost of the service.) Most salons will custom order your hair for you, and can't return it if you change your mind. Your deposit usually covers the cost of the hair; expect this to be non-refundable.

Some salons offer a package price that includes the cost of the hair and installation (usually this does not include services you'll need for your own hair, like cut and color.) Others itemize costs, and show separate charges for hair purchased and installation. Still others will offer a maintenance package, usually including hair, installation, and upkeep appointments for a period of time.

Types of extensions: There are many types and methods of hair extensions, and this list is not, by any means, complete. But here are a few pros and cons of some of the most common types. 

Clip-ins: A "do-it-yourself" option, available in a huge variety of lengths and materials. Many are synthetic hair, which keeps the cost low but means limited styling options. You can't use heat on most synthetic hair, though there are a few that are heat-resistant. (They will say so on the package, and are usually a little more expensive.) Human hair clip-ins are available, and although the price might be higher, this is a good choice if you want more styling options, and plan to wear them for a long time.

Pros:

• Can be put in and taken out by you (no stylist needed) 
• Relatively inexpensive (prices range from $50-300)
• Last a long time if cared for properly

Cons:

• Usually synthetic hair (no heat)
• Synthetic hair clip-ins cannot be dyed, so if you change your color, you can't change your extensions
• Can tangle easily and become unusable
• Clips can become uncomfortable and can damage hair if not used properly

Tape-in: "Wefts" (a flat piece of hair, usually 1"-3" wide) are attached with a special, double-sided tape, similar to the tape used for toupees. One weft goes on top of your hair, the other attaches on the underside, forming a bond.

Pros:

• Looks very natural (for a while)
• Great for super fine or fragile hair. Less stress on small strands
• Can be re-used;  hair is removed, shampooed, re-taped and reapplied. Lengthy, time consuming process, but can be done.
• Quick, easy application can mean less cost. 

Cons:

• Tape-ins grow out quickly and become visible; the tape tends to curl as the natural hair gets longer
• Removal can be difficult; tape is very sticky and can be difficult to get out of the hair
• Re-taping/reapplication is time consuming and messy. 

Micro-link: Slender strands of hair are attached to small strands of the natural hair, using small metal beads which are crimped with pliers.

Pros:

• Very cost-effective; hair can easily be re-used several times. (maintenance appointments at the salon keep them looking fresh) 
• No heat or glue
• Very natural looking results
• Hair can be colored or highlighted without removing the extensions
• Hair products or heat tools pose no problem

Cons:

• Can cause stress and breakage on fragile hair . (silicone lined beads are gentler.)
• Upkeep/maintenance appointments can mean extra cost. (offset by not having to repurchase hair every 3 months)
• Sometimes doesn't hold well on certain types of hair; strands can just slide out of the hair.
• bead color, if not exactly the same as hair color, can sometimes show through hair

Fusion: Individual strands are attached to strands of the natural hair. The strands are tipped with a hard substance, usually a keratin/glue mixture, which is melted using a special tool, and then bonded to the natural hair by rolling the softened substance around the natural hair until it cools back into a solid.

Pros:

• Very natural-looking  results
• When done correctly, minimal stress or damage to natural hair
• Lasts 3-4 months
• Hair can be colored (but not over the bonds) while wearing

Cons:

• Installation and removal can be time consuming (and costly)
• Bonds melt at a fairly low heat; using flat irons or curling irons can melt the bonds. Care must be taken to avoid heat near the bonds
• Alcohols and oils can weaken the bonds and cause them to fall out. Hair products must be kept away from the bonds
• Hair cannot be re-used. When extensions are removed, new hair is purchased and applied.

Care of extensions
Getting hair extensions can be a big investment; it makes sense to protect that investment by using quality care products. The extensions can't absorb natural oils and nutrients from your skin like your own hair can, so it's important to take good care of it to keep it supple, healthy and shiny. Some hair extension companies offer their own care lines, and your stylist can suggest the best care products for you. Some tips to keep your extensions looking good:

• Braid your hair loosely before bed, or tie in a scrunchie. This minimizes tangling while you sleep.
• Shampoo gently and use a conditioner. Comb the conditioner through from the ends toward your scalp (avoiding the bonds) while you're still in the shower. Leave the conditioner in as long as you can to maximize the benefits. 
• Gently towel blot, don't scrub with the towel
• Use a detangler, and comb out tangles carefully from the bottom up
• Invest in a "Loop Brush" (available from your salon), specially made for hair extensions. This will avoid pulling and stressing the extensions and your natural hair.
• Use hair products if needed, but avoid bonds. Concentrate on the ends and mid-length for volume and control.
• Be careful with heat tools (blow driers, flat and curling irons.) They can easily melt bonds. 
• Follow all care instructions given by your salon, and schedule (and keep!) maintenance appointments.

One final word: Craigslist is full of folks offering hair extension services, but please be careful. In most states, a person doing hair extensions for money is required to be licensed by the state board of cosmetology, and someone offering to do hair extensions in your (or their) kitchen may not be licensed, or even properly trained to do them. I've seen ads on Craigslist that actually state "I don't have a license but I know how to do extensions." Having someone without proper training apply extensions can result in things far worse than just cheap synthetic hair and extensions that shed or fall out. Poor sanitation practices can expose you to serious health risks, and poor application can cause hair loss, scarring and irreparable damage to your hair. One client had entire chunks of hair missing after having extensions done in someone's kitchen, leaving little round bald spots all through the top of her head. Plus the "stylist" couldn't get the client's hair to the correct color, so she applied bleach and sent her home with it, instructing her to come back the next morning. Not only was the color hideous, but this caused serious damage that we are still trying to repair. If you're looking for someone to do extensions for you, always ask to see photos of their work or referrals from other clients, and always check to make sure they're licensed in your state.

RIP, Jim Rocco.

This week I was saddened to hear that Jim "Vincenzo" Rocco had died last June. Jim was a huge influence on me, and some of the most important lessons I learned, things that literally shaped the course and direction of my career, were things I learned working in his salons.

I first met Jim as a new Pittsburgh Beauty Academy graduate (back in the day when being a PBA grad was a Big Deal and something to be proud of.) Jim hired me for my first post-school job, working as an assistant in his "Hairporte" salon in Century III Mall. He was also opening another location in the newly built One Oxford Center in downtown Pittsburgh. The building was so beautiful and elegant, and boasted some of the coolest shopping in the city; there was a Ralph Lauren, the fabulous K.Barchetti, (fantastic for designer shoes) and my favorite store of all time, Emphatics. I once quite happily spent an entire month's pay on a gorgeous eggshell-white Norma Kamali dress at Emphatics. *sigh*

Anyway, Jim opened a beautiful salon in the fabulous, brand-new building, with state-of-the-art furnishings and decor, and named it "James Rocco Hair Designs". I split my work week between the Oxford salon and the Century III location. I was a young hotshot, completely unaware of just how much there really was for me to learn. See, PBA had a way of impressing upon its students that once they graduated, all the world's best salons would be tripping over each other as they fought to be first at your door, each with a better offer in hand.

Reality is a harsh mo-fo, as my friend likes to say. Not that my job choices were bad or that there weren't plenty to choose from. But, as it turns out, most of the better salons had the infinite wisdom to resist my obvious charm and appeal, offering entry-level jobs where ongoing training would be part of my benefits package. I was, of course, highly offended by this. I went to PBA! Did they not recognize that I was destined to be the greatest hairstylist in the world?? What were they thinking? But, lacking any serious offers to become the styling director of a major salon, I chose to work with Jim Rocco at the Hairporte. Jim's trainee program included classes a few nights a week, during which senior stylists taught new assistants cutting and styling techniques, color theory and application skills, among other things. I wholeheartedly resisted this entire process. In my haze of youthful ego and ignorance, I resented the time I had to spend on the process, I resented being treated like a newbie, and I really resented being corrected. For anything. (yes, I was insufferably arrogant.) Finally, in exasperation, Jim sat down to talk to me about why I was resisting the training. I honestly do not remember what I said, but I will never forget what he said to me:

"Shari, I know you know what you know. Nobody is taking that away from you. I just want you to know what I know, too."

I don't know what it was about that sentence that finally got through to me, but it did. It completely changed my attitude about his program and about improving my technical skills. And not only has it stayed with me as part of my career-long thirst for learning new things, but it also helped me immensely, and often, as a trainer of hair colorists later in my career. 

Later on during my tenure with Jim's salons, I had another learning experience that has stayed with me throughout my career. I had been promoted to a stylist, finally, and was able to actually work on clients. One day a woman and her husband came to the Oxford salon. He explained that she spoke very little English, but she wanted platinum highlights in her naturally very dark brown hair. I thought it would be a big mistake, and tried to explain why, but he wouldn't listen; just do the highlights, please.

I will spare the arduous retelling of various technical and judgement errors I made that day, and just say  those details have also served me well when comforting a new stylist on my staff who, through her tears, sobbed that she would never understand hair color. I said yes, she would, and she sniffed and said "YOU never had a goof up like this." I laughed (a lot) and said "oh, yes... yes I have. Let me tell you about the highlight I did at Oxford Center."

The end result of the various poor decisions was that the woman's hair was, literally, smoking when I checked it. It was a disaster of legendary proportion, and she, lacking appropriate English skills, cursed me mightily in at least three other languages. I have never since, thankfully, seen hair actually have smoke rising from it (not steam, no- this was smoke). My more experienced coworkers stepped in to help, and did everything they could to repair the damage and soothe the furious client. After she left, with a bag of free products and follow up appointments for deep conditioner treatments, we decided as a team that we'd just sort of keep this quiet and not tell Jim. No sense upsetting him; he'd just be mad and it was handled and everything was fine. I was relieved.

Then the following week I happened to be at the desk at Century III when the phone rang. I answered it, and it was Jim, calling from Oxford. "Hi Shari, I just met your client from last week. Mrs. Smith?" (name changed, obviously) "Oh." (long pause, while my heart kind of fell into my feet.) "so.... yeah. Am I fired?" I responded.
"No, you're not fired. But let's talk about this for a bit. What did you learn from this?"

And so, we had a long conversation about the choices I had made in formulating and processing the color, the disastrous end result, and how the situation was handled. Everything, from the customer's experience to my coworkers' and mine- what was done correctly and how I could have made different choices. He never once berated me or made me feel stupid, never scolded me or expressed any anger. His entire conversation was about making sure that I took away something valuable and would be able to make better choices next time. And you know what? I did. And that compassion, that empathy, that passion for making me a better hairdresser has stayed with me my entire career. It not only made me a better colorist, it made me a better trainer, and gave me a role model to emulate when it was my turn to teach others. It gave me a template to use when dealing with young staff members of my own who made mistakes, and I hope I was able to show them the same degree of compassion and instill the same passion for hair that Jim Rocco gave me.

I ran into Jim a few years ago at a local supply store. It was nice to see him. I knew he opened a small salon in Pittsburgh's Oakland, and meant to stop in, but never managed to get there. I wish I had known of his passing; I would have paid my respects. I've been fortunate to have some terrific people in my career who helped to shape the adult I was becoming. I never fully expressed to Jim how important the things I learned from him were, or how much his influence changed my life, and for this I am profoundly sad.

Rest well, Jim. You were a great hairdresser, and an even greater mentor. You helped me become the professional I am today. You gave me a wonderful example to follow, and I am forever grateful. Thank you.

How to Stop Beating Your Hair Up.

I really wanted to title this post "How to Not <insert your personal favorite off-color slang word for "ruin"> Up Your Hair, Again and Again. However, considering this is a new blog, I opted instead for the safer, less controversial title above. Still, the message is the same: How you can stop repeatedly doing damage to your hair.

We all do things, every day, that do not always result in healthy, shiny hair. The good news is, there are a few little things that you can either do, or stop doing, that will make a difference.

BLOT WITH THE TOWEL, DON'T  SCRUB
 When you get out of the shower, don't scrub at your head with the towel as if you hate it. This causes unnecessary abrasion on your hair. It raises the cuticle (the outer layer of your hair) and causes more tangles. Try blotting gently, then wrap damp hair in the towel, like a turban, to let the towel do its job and absorb as much extra moisture as possible.

COMB WET HAIR, DON'T BRUSH
Even if your hair tangles like crazy, even after carefully blotting with the towel, please resist the temptation to rip through those snarls with the nearest brush. Wet hair is weak hair, and every time you snap a hair, a tiny hair fairy screams in agony. When your hair is wet, it stretches more than it's supposed to. And, if your hair is chemically altered (color, perm, straightener, etc) it may not always snap back, and you'll be left with thin, noodly hair with no elasticity. Instead, before trying to remove tangles, use a leave-in conditioner or strengthening product first. Isle of You Hair Color Studio favorites are No.4  Super Comb Prep & Protect, Pearatin Fortifying Repairative Serum, and Moroccan Oil Treatment (original or light, depending on hair texture) . Apply the product to damp, un-combed tangles. Then, using a wide-toothed comb, gently work from the bottom up to loosen tangles without yanking or forcing the comb through. Take the extra few minutes required to get through, especially if your hair is fine or  fragile. Thicker hair takes a lot longer, I know, but if you want it to stay thick and healthy, and don't want to see those little flyaway ends popping through, it's worth the time. And the hair fairies will thank you.

PROTECT YOUR HAIR IN HARSH WEATHER CONDITIONS
When you're out in extreme weather, your hair can take a serious beating. Are you a skier? In my misspent youth, I wouldn't be caught dead wearing a hat on the slopes. In fact, once, during a girls-only Colorado ski trip, my two friends and I were taking a break from the Winterpark slopes when a man walked past the table and paused to ask if we had just gotten there. We replied that no, we had been out all morning tearing it up. He marveled that our hair- all of us- looked perfect. (All of us were hairstylists, and in our "fashion-before-function" mindset, we made sure that hair wouldn't move no matter how hard we skied.) BUT- that kind of effort isn't always the best idea for hair, especially fragile hair. Extreme cold  can make hair brittle.Use a leave-in conditioner, one of those mentioned previously or your stylist's favorite, before going out into the cold. Covering your hair (yes, with a HAT) will protect it from harsh wind, and will also keep you warm. The good news? There are some really fun hats out there now. Something for everybody.

WET YOUR HAIR BEFORE YOU SWIM
Chlorine is, hands-down, one of the harshest things we humans expose our hair to. Also, nearly impossible to remove once it's in there. There is a distinct feel to chlorine-damaged hair; it feels rough; "skritchy" is my favorite word for it. On any type of hair, it's unpleasant; on fragile or curly hair that tends to be dry anyway, it can be devastating. If you swim only in your own pool, it's easy to either adjust the chlorine levels so it's not so harsh, or use other sanitizers that don't damage hair and skin. But if you swim in a public pool; a gym, school, or the local park, you can't do anything about what they use or how much. And frankly, when there are lots of people using the same pool, chlorine is a good choice to keep everyone healthy. But there are things you can do to protect your hair. The easiest is to simply wet your hair down - thoroughly saturate with tap water first, before going in the pool. Even if you are required to wear a bathing cap, this is a good practice. The cap is usually not going to keep your hair dry anyway, so this shouldn't add much to your time getting ready to go later. Doing this simply prevents your hair from absorbing the chlorinated water. Think of a sponge; if the sponge is soaked full of water, you can't use it to absorb more water. Same idea with your hair. To make this idea even better, take the time to add a conditioner to your tap water-wet hair too, before swimming. The best for this would be a thicker, "rinse-out" type conditioner instead of a leave-in, though leave-ins will work in a pinch. The thicker cream base of a traditional conditioner formula will create a little more barrier to keep your hair from absorbing the chlorine. Keep in mind, though, that many public pools frown on wearing anything into the pool, like body lotions or hair products, that can make the water cloudy. So be a good citizen and cover your hair before swimming if you use this tip.


USE THE SUN TO HELP CONDITION YOUR HAIR
Going to a beach for a warm-weather escape this winter? (as I'm writing this, winter is in full force and out my window the snow is accumulating; my mother has already called to warn me to wear a hat.) If you're getting away from all this, and are going to be sitting on a beach somewhere, let the warmth of the sun help condition your hair. Pack along a good, deep conditioner. Ask your stylist for suggestions; Isle of You Hair Color Studio likes Keune's Color Care Treatment, Moroccan Oil's  Intense Hydrating Mask and Wella's Brilliance Treatment (for fine or thick hair). Shampoo first, then load on the deep conditioner of your choice before you go claim your spot on the beach. Relax, and let the sunshine help all the nutrients and nourishing goodness penetrate into your hair while you sip margaritas and ogle the cabana boy/girl.

Stay tuned; subscribe for future discussions of healthy hair, great products, and various other fascinating topics. And maybe even pictures of puppies.

Are professional salon products really better than drugstore products?

If you've ever had your hair cut in a salon, undoubtedly you've had, at one point or another, a stylist recommend professional hair care products for your hair. There are lots of mixed opinions out there, on both sides of "the chair." Some folks feel pressured and uncomfortable when a stylist suggests products for them, others realize the benefit of having personalized, professional recommendation. On the other hand, some stylists are uncomfortable suggesting home care products and feel that they don't want to be "pushy," while others feel that making home-care recommendations is part of the professional service.

And on either side is the debate; are professional products really so different?

Honestly, in my professional opinion, yes, they are. Not that the "over the counter" products are bad, necessarily. In fact, there are plenty of high quality products out there that are value priced, widely available in large retailers (drug, grocery and department stores) and are perfectly able to adequately care for your hair. So what are the differences? I mean, shampoo is shampoo, right? How different can it be?
Think of it this way. Ever have a great loaf of home-made bread? Or a really great, fresh loaf of Mancini's Italian bread? Or even an art bread from a local bakery or Panera? Think of the texture, the taste, the aroma. Intoxicating, right?

Now, picture your favorite loaf of bargain bread from the grocery store. Wonder, or even a generic brand. No comparison to the carefully baked specialty bread. So what's the difference? Bread is bread. It all has the same stuff in it- flour, yeast, salt... uh... whatever else goes in bread. (I am clearly not a baker.) All the same ingredients, more or less. So why are some breads so much different?Ingredients and process.

It's the same with hair care products. Sure, shampoo is shampoo is shampoo, but professional brands use the highest quality ingredients, cutting edge technology and a more refined process, producing a product that is simply a better version.

And, the best reason I can give in favor of salon products is the personalized, professional recommendation of your stylist. Your hairstylist knows your hair, and knows the products on the shelf. Your stylist will be able to suggest exactly the right combination of products to achieve what ever results you are looking for- everything from routine maintenance to dealing with oily or dry/fragile hair. Also, if you are having professional color done, it makes sense to protect your investment with a good quality home care regimen designed to make your color last longer and protect the integrity of your hair.

So next time you're in the salon chair, listen to the suggestions your stylist makes for your hair. If your stylist doesn't make suggestions, ask!!

This article originally appeared on the Pittsburgh Examiner website, May 10, 2009.

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